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GUNUNG RINJANI
Soaring over northern Lombok, the mighty Rinjani volcano is of immense cultural (and climatic) importance for Lombok's people, while climbing the peak is one of Indone sia's most exhilarating experiences. The great cone, which reaches 3726m, and its upper slopes were declared a national park in 1997. Thousands of pilgrims, for whom Rinjani is a sacred mountain, venture up to its crater lake and place offerings in the waters, bathe in the hot springs here and pay respects to Rinjani as an abode of deities.
Gunung Rinjani is the highest mountain on Lombok and Indonesia's highest outside Papua. Its caldera contains a cobalt crescent-shaped lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea), which is about 6km across at its widest point. The crater has a series of natural hot springs known as Aiq Kalak, whose waters locals take to blend with herbs to make medicinal treatments, particularly for skin diseases. The lake is 600m below the crater rim, and rising from its waters is a minor, newer cone, Gunung Baru (or Gunung Barujari), which only emerged a couple of hundred years ago. This ominously grey, highly active scarred peak erupted as recently as October 2004.

GUNUNG RINJANI SECURITY WARNING
There were incidents of armed robbery on Rinjani in 2000, though we have not received reports of any further incidents until another attack in July 2005. While this seems to have been an isolated incident, it's best to check safety advice locally before you set out.
There are plans to post police and moun-tain security guards inside the crater.
Both the Balinese and Sasaks revere Rinjani. To the Balinese, it is equal to Gunung Agung (p219), a seat of the gods, and many Balinese make an annual pilgrimage here. In a cer¬emony called pekelan, people throw jewellery into the lake and make offerings to the spirit of the mountain. Some Sasaks make several pil-grimages a year - full moon is their favourite time for paying respect to the mountain and for curing ailments by bathing in Aiq Kalak. Rinjani is particularly revered by the Wektu Telu (see the boxed text, p316) for whom the mountain has immense spiritual power.
The trek to the crater lake is not to be taken lightly and should only be undertaken as part of an organised trek due to the active status of Gunung Baru and, sadly, because there have been (very) occasional attacks on hikers (see left). Climbing Rinjani during the wet season (November to March), when the tracks are often treacherously slippy and there's a real risk of landslides, is not at all advisable - the National Park office often completely forbids access to Rinjani for the first three months of each year. June to August is the only time you are guaranteed (well, almost) no rain or cloud, but be prepared as it can still get very cold at the summit.
Senaru has the best services for trekkers so most start their treks there. Those who want the fastest summit climb, however, should start from Sembalun Lawang on the eastern side.
Organised Treks
The best and most inexpensive way to or-ganise a trip is to head to either the Rinjani Trek Centre (p313) in Senaru or the Rinjani Information Centre (p313) in Sembalun La-wang. Anyone passing through Senggigi can first contact the Rinjani Trek Centre's office there (p294). Funded by the New Zealand government, the centres use a rotation system so that all of the local trekking organisers get .1 slice of the hiking pie.
Whether you book through your losmen, or directly at the RTC or RIC, the same trek packages (at the same prices) are offered. The most popular is the three-day, two-night trek from Senaru to Sembalun Lawang via the summit and includes food, equipment, guide, porters, park fee and transport back to Senaru. This costs 1.6million rupiah for one, dropping to 966,000Rp per person for two hikers and 821,000Rp for three. An overnight trek to the crater rim from Senaru costs 1. 19million rupiah for one, 714,000Rp for two and 606,900Rp for three. The deals are cheaper the more of you there are.
A number of agencies in Mataram, Senggigi and the Gili Islands can organise all-inclusive treks. Prices usually include everything outlined above, plus return transport from the point of origin. For example, Perama (www.peramatour.com), with offices in all of these locations, has a trekking package that leaves from any of the places above, via Senaru using official RTC guides for 1.6million rupiah per person (minimum two people).
Guides & Porters
Hiking independently is not recommended due to security and safety concerns (see the boxed text, opposite).
If you don't want to do an all-inclusive trekking package with RTC or RIC you can hire guides (100,000Rp per day) and porters (80,000Rp) from them independently, but make sure you take a radio (10,000Rp per day). Contract your guides and porters directly from the centres in Senaru and Sembalun Lawang, as they are licensed for your security. Guides are knowledgeable and informative, but won't carry anything for you, so take at least one porter. You also have to provide them with food, water and transport, and probably cigarettes as well.
Entrance Fee & Equipment
The entrance fee for the Rinjani National Park is 27,000Rp - register and pay at the RTC in Senaru or the RIC in Sembalun Lawang before you start your trek.
Sleeping bags and tents are essential and can be hired at either RTC or RIC. You'll also need solid footwear, layers of warm clothing, wet-weather gear, cooking equipment and a torch (flashlight), but these can also be hired from the RTC. Expect to pay about 50,000Rp a head per day for all your equipment.
Take a stove so you don't need to deplete the limited supply of firewood. Carry all rubbish out with you and make sure others in your party do the same.
Backpacks can be left at most losmen in Senaru or the RTC for around 5000Rp per day.
Food & Supplies
Trek organisers at RTC and RIC can arrange trekking food, or you can take your own. It's better to buy most supplies in Mataram or Senggigi, where it's cheaper and there's more choice, but some provisions are available in Senaru. Take plenty of water and a lighter.
Getting There & Away
For transport options from Sembalun Lawang to Senaru, see p314. If you've purchased a trekking package, transport back to the point of origin is usually included.

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